Orlando – An Extraordinary Culinary Destination
By Stuart J. FaberDuring my freshman year at the University of Wisconsin, I met a student from Orlando, Fla. Her name was Nina. My attention was drawn to her because I had never met anyone named Nina. Wisconsin, a melting pot for immigrants from Scandinavia and Germany was populated with girls named Mary, Nancy, Susan, or Joyce. I do recall one girl named Nora but not a single Nina.Nina hailed from a town with which neither my fellow students nor I were familiar. Actually, none of us in the early 1950s had ever heard of Orlando, Fla. Nina soon became a target of warm and friendly teasing-“Nina from Orlando.”Once populated by Creek and other Native American tribes, this city of modest origin is now one of the largest growing metrotrapolitan areas in America. It boasts more than 62 million visitors each year – the country’s record. The two million square foot convention center is the country’s second largest – exceeded only by Chicago. Disney World, of course, is a world-renowned destination. Orlando International Airport, once a grass strip, then an Army Air Force base, now receives daily flights from as far away as Dubai.AirportsThere is no shortage of airports in the Orlando area. Orlando International Airport (KMCO) is the epicenter – not to be confused with Orlando Sanford International Airport (KSFB), which is about 21 miles north. Sanford, about 16 miles from Orlando, and formerly a Naval base, is now primarily devoted to general aviation training.Orlando International is about six miles southeast of Orlando. At an elevation of 94 feet, the field has two sets of parallel runways. R18L/36R and R18R/36L, both 12,000 feet long. R17R/35L is 10,000 feet long and R17L/35R is 9,000 feet long. ILS, RNAV and VOR/DME approaches are available on virtually every runway. I recommend Atlantic, 800/704-4147 as your FBO.Just three miles east of Orlando, Executive Airport (KORL) is 113 feet above sea level. Runway 7/25 is 6,004 feet long and Runway 13/31 is 4,625 feet long. Both R7 and 25 have ILS and RNAV approaches. Atlantic is my FBO of choice, 407/894-7331.Hotels
Orlando has hotel rooms sufficient to accommodate the entire populations of a small city. Visitors have a choice of staying near Disney World, downtown, or adjacent to the other major attractions. For my recent trip, I decided to explore a few hotels near the convention center. I selected these establishments because they were virtually equidistant from everything. To venture downtown, or to one of the popular attractions, all I had to do was hop on the I-Trolley (for around a buck), and be transported to any destination. Here are two of my favorite hotel discoveries:Hilton Orlando, 6001 Destination Parkway, Orlando 32819, 407/313-8400A mere 15 minutes from the airport, connected to the Orange County Convention Center, in the heart of International Drive shopping and dining and within 15 minutes of Sea World, Universal Orlando, and Disney World, this hotel is strategically located.If “charismatic” is an appropriate adjective to describe a hotel, the word was made for the Hilton Orlando. A perceptible energy and personality emanates from the staff. It was palpable the minute I first walked into the stunning lobby. Every staff member I encountered comported himself or herself as if an old friend – and they were sincere. The immaculate, tastefully furnished guestrooms and suites are abundant in size and as comfortable as a home. Every amenity is at your fingertips from super speed Wi-Fi to coffee makers, executive style desks, and giant LCD-HD TVs. Hang out at one of the many pools, take a boat down the Lazy River, hit the jogging trail, or work out in one the best equipped gyms I’ve seen in any hotel. For sumptuous body pampering, visit the spa, salon, sauna, and steam roomPlanning an event for 1,000 of your best friends – or just a small wedding, pilot’s get-together, or top-secret board meeting? This 1,400-room hotel can accommodate any and all of them. Three ballrooms, one as large as 50,000 square feet, to secluded boardrooms and everything in-between will satisfy the most fastidious meeting planner.Sauntering through the lobby and other public areas, I could feel the congenial and satisfied buzz from the crowd. Commodious as this hotel is with all of its rooms and 175,000 square feet of meeting space, it’s still easy to carve out your own little niche, cuddle up, and never feel that you are in such a large complex.Hyatt Regency Orlando, 9801 International Drive, Orlando 32819, 407/284-1234. 
Located approximately one block from the Hilton, the Hyatt Regency also joins the ranks as one of my favorite hotels in Orlando. These competing brands have united to form a consortium entitled, “Orlando 3000.” Between this duo, they have 3,000 rooms. Working together rather than jousting as competitors, it’s a win-win, both for these hotel operators and the consumer.The Hyatt offers more hustle-bustle than the Hilton, but it’s a pleasant and joyful hustle-bustle. If you enjoy people watching, a hotel that is a city into itself and with plenty of action, the Hyatt is for you. When you grow weary of the activity, you can retreat to your luxurious room or suite and feel completely insulated from the crowd.The 1,600 guestrooms and suites feature a soft color palette and tranquil, contemporary style. Dedicated workspaces, 42-inch HD TVs, hi-speed Internet, iPod docks, and luxurious beds ensure a peaceful and comfortable stay.The Spa caters to travelers by offering customized treatments launching with a massage, then adding hot stone treatments, eye masks, body scrubs, or reflexology.Meeting space seems endless. More than 315,000 square feet of flexible indoor and outdoor meeting space includes rooms and patio venues of every size and shape.Who Says You Can’t Get a Great Meal in a Hotel?This article started off as a showcase of Orlando’s world-class attractions: Walt Disney World, SeaWorld, Universal Orlando Resort, and I-Drive. On arrival, I met with a group of journalists and members of the culinary staff. As soon as I encountered Hilton’s executive chef and took a look at his panorama of goodies, I knew this article was destined to be transformed into a story about great cuisine.
We hung around, became acquainted, and enjoyed a few beverages. As the food was assembled atop the buffet, I gathered all of the good manners I could summon. I did not want to be the first one to dig in, especially since “dinner is served” had not been announced, but when no one was looking, I grabbed a shrimp.Not too many years ago, a hotel dining room was the last place you would select for a special evening. Grumpy waiters in stiff, shiny tuxedos, somber dining rooms, and food the likes of military mess hall cuisine were generally what guests could expect.
Today, a rising number of hotel chefs are trailblazers in the creation of superb and exciting cuisine. In recent years, some of the best cuisine I’ve ever had has been at hotel dining establishments. The enthusiastic, down-to-earth service personnel are generally dressed in casual attire. The white tablecloths have all but disappeared. The prices are on a par with freestanding restaurants.The food and beverage personnel have the passion, dedication, financial resource,s and talent to seek out the world’s best ingredients, many of which are local farm-to-table, and fashion them into flavors and textures the likes of which I’ve rarely experienced. For example, Hilton Orlando Executive Chef Louis Martorano, a bubbly, jovial Italian guy and former pro baseball player from Brooklyn, makes almost daily pilgrimages to a talented group of local farmers and ranchers. Beef, poultry, seafood, lamb, and veal are raised just a few miles from his kitchens.Each of these hotels has an impressive array of restaurants. At the Hyatt, Fiorenzo Italian Steakhouse, the flagship restaurant, has an open kitchen with a pizza oven, plus an award-winning wine cellar. Urban Tide is a chic spot with fresh local seafood from grouper cheeks to Atlantic swordfish. The Bi-Line Diner has lighter cuisine, plus a selection of cakes, pies, and other homemade pastries.Down the road at the Hilton, Spencer’s for Steaks & Chops is on my “In Search of the Ultimate Steak” list. Mostly 28-day aged USDA prime beef is seared and grilled to perfection.Banquets? Not a Rubber Chicken in Sight
We zigzagged between the two hotels and sampled some typical banquet cuisine. At other hotels, we’ve all experienced those dreary affairs where the food is served cold, the chicken could be used for a slingshot, and dessert consists of Jello. Generally, the banquet room decor is as boring as the food.But how about this? At the Hilton, we were served a southwestern lunch in a rustic storage room. The huge dining room table was an old barn door. The place was decorated with a delightful variety of colors and old farm stuff. Tacos and other south-of-the-border delicacies were served. Some of the best corn on the cob I’ve ever eaten was sizzling on a griddle. Lightly charred, the corn was brushed with mayo and Parmesan.Tummies still filled with lunch, we soon struggled off to dinner, an intimate room populated by a bunch of jolly cooks. Shrimp, huge scallops, and Italian rice balls were being cooked. Scallops require a deft touch, and the chef invited me to the stove and graciously gave me a few tips.Next came the main course – or courses! We started with a snow-white piece of turbot gently poached in a fresh pea nage. The next course consisted of several slices of sushi-grade tuna with baby arugula and a tomato confit. Incidentally, the veggies had been harvested just hours before. Next, came hunks of lobster, baby carrots, fava beans, and fresh morels. The seafood emitted the fresh, pure fragrance of the sea. Chef was relentless: a loin lamb chop from a nearby ranch. For dessert, the pastry chef tempered some chocolate before our very eyes and made a variety of chocolate truffles. This was not a banquet – it was a festival!Meanwhile, back at the Hyatt, Executive Chef Lawrence Eells, a trifle more reserved than Louis, but equally as passionate and talented, was preparing more culinary surprises. On our arrival, we were met with a table of wrap sandwiches, greens, and perhaps America’s best potato salad and the most astounding corn chowder I’ve ever eaten. Chef Larry makes virtually everything from scratch, even the pickles. All pastries and breads are made in-house. The wrap sandwiches filled with beef, turkey, cheese, and avocado, were absolutely divine.Dinner should be a family pastime, and Chef Larry has introduced this concept to the banquet table. Our group of 20 sat down in a setting that resembled a residential dining room. As the courses were presented, Chef asked for volunteers, one to serve the soup, another to slice the bread, and another to carve the roast. Several of us pitched in and, within moments, the group felt like a family as we dined on a French chicken entry consisting of tender morsels of chicken with fresh baby vegetables in a delicate cream sauce and a perfectly prepared sirloin of beef.Chef Larry also offers several options from contemporary cuisine to Creole and country. He also fashions flavors from around the world. These menus change at the threshold of each season. Examples are a black eyed peas salad, Cajun Caesar salad, pork loin medallions with oyster dressing, chicken gumbo with andouille sausage, or a catch of the day with remoulade sauce.For those who prefer Latin American creations, the Argentinean beef stew with pumpkin, potatoes, corn, and peaches is outstanding as is the seared Mahi Mahi with ginger and cilantro butter.Desserts range from peach cobbler, peanut butter cake, Mississippi mud cake, dulce de leche chocolate cake, and guava cheesecake to a coffee pot de crème.In both hotels, these banquets, large or small, can be presented in a variety of unique venues – inside or out – even poolside.Whether dining in one of the restaurants or attending a banquet, each of these two remarkable hotels offers unparalleled cuisine – a resonant testimonial to this claim is that many locals stop by for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.Perhaps Nina had the last laugh. I would not be surprised to learn that, after college, she returned to Orlando and bought up miles of real estate for 10 bucks an acre.
