Sitka: The Largest Small City In America
By Stuart J. Faber
Downtown Sitka.
If you were asked, “What’s the largest city in the United States?” it’s unlikely that your response would be “Sitka.” Yet, Sitka would be the correct answer. This unified city-borough has a small population (around 9,000). However, from the standpoint of its land area of 2,870-square-miles, one can accurately claim that it’s the largest city-borough in the United States. The city is spread across Baranof Island. Thus, when one considers the surrounding water area, the total square mileage jumps to 4,811. Just for comparison, the Sitka region is four times the size of Rhode Island. The next largest city by area is Jacksonville, Florida.Take a look at a map of Alaska and notice a panhandle in the southeastern portion of the state. This landmass, along with the Alexander Archipelago of numerous islands, commences near the southwestern border of Canada’s Yukon Territory. This strip of land wraps itself southward around the mountainous coastline of British Columbia, all the way to Prince Rupert. Sitka lies in the approximate center of the panhandle, between Glacier Bay and Ketchikan.
A Brief History
A view of Sitka harbor.
A view of Sitka harbor.
At one time, Sitka was under Russian rule. Originally, the Russian name was Novo
-
Arkhangelsk, which means New Archangel. Long before the Russians settled in Alaska, in fact, about 10,000 years ago, Sitka was inhabited by the Tlingit tribe, a population of indigenous people of the Pacific Northwest coast of North America. The present name of Sitka is derived from the Tlingit phrase “People on Baranof Island, plus the Russian word, “Sheetka.” I’ll stick with “Sitka.” It’s easier to pronounce.In 1799, the Russians settled
and named it Fort Saint Michael. Along came Governor Alexander Baranov. He renamed the island after himself – Baranov Island. The Russians developed a community and established a trading company. However, the Tlingit warriors were not very hospitable. In 1802, they destroyed the original settlement and slaughtered most of the intruders. Baranov managed to slip away. He returned in 1804, brought with him a formidable military force, and took back the settlement.The
,built in Sitka in 1848, became the seat of the
bishop of Kamchatka, the Kurile and Aleutian Islands, and Alaska
. The original church burned to the ground in 1966. Soon, it was meticulously restored to its original appearance.In 1867, the United States purchased Alaska from the Russians for $7.2 million – about 2 cents an acre. In 1937, the United States Navy established the first seaplane base in Alaska on Japonski Island. In 1941, both the Army and Navy remained in Sitka until the end of WWII. At that time, the Army base was placed into caretaker status. The naval station in Sitka was deactivated in June 1944.
The Airport
Sitka Rocky Gutierrez Airport, (SIT) is one of those beautiful waterfront airports. Its sprawling, wide runway juts into the bay. Runway 11/29, 7,200 feet in length, is close to sea level – in reality, it’s 26 feet above the water. The runway has RNAV, GPS, LDA/DME and VOR approaches. Aero Services is the local FBO. Call 907/ 747-7222.
Sitka Weather is Untraditional.
The summers are cool with many cloudy days. The temperatures rarely exceed 80°F. Winters are long, rather cold and quite windy. Overcast skies are a daily occurrence. Heavy rains may erupt any time, any season.When we think of Alaska, we imagine huge quantities of snow. However, the winters bring very little snowfall. When snow does occur, it usually dissipates by the end of the day.
THINGS TO DO IN SITKA
St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral, 240 Lincoln Street, Sitka, AK 99835, 907/747-8120, stmichaelcathedral.org
Here you can experience Russian history and view a collection of Russian Orthodox art and rare church treasures. In the midst of the 1966 fire, many of the precious icons and religious objects were rescued and are now displayed in the rebuilt structure.
Sitka National Historic Park
The Sitka National Historic Park preserves and recounts the story of the Tlingit people, their early settlements and their 1804 battle with the Russians. The museum displays an exhibit of Tlingit and Russian artifacts. The pathway through the heavily forested bayside park weaves along a series of authentic Haida and Tlingit totem poles. An active Tlingit arts program includes the opportunity to observe and talk with Native Indian artisans as they work on their various crafts.
Alaska Raptor Center, 1000 Raptor Way, Sitka, AK 99835, 907/747-8662, alaskaraptor.org
This is where you can study eagles, owls and hawks up close. A pioneering wildlife project, the Raptor Center has proven that innovative veterinary medicine and a dedicated volunteer effort can make a life-or-death difference with Alaska’s birds of prey. The center’s goal is to return all rehabilitated birds to the wild; however, the few who never regain their ability to fly remain housed at the center’s outdoor display. In addition to enjoying the display, visitors can attend several daily lectures on specific birds.
Fortress of The Bear, 4639 Sawmill Creek Rd., 907/747-3032
Rescued orphaned bears.
I love to see bears in the wild-so long as they don’t see me. This facility has created a sanctuary that virtually replicates the bear’s natural habitat. To gaze at these majestic animals is a heartening experience. In the wild, if the mother dies, the cubs rarely survive. I highly recommend a visit to this non-profit education and rescue center with its expansive shelter for orphaned brown bear adults and cubs. Knowledgeable and friendly guides roam the compound. In three hours, I learned more about bears from these folks than I learned in my entire schooling.
Fishing
Fishing is the main attraction around Sitka. I was extremely impressed with Quest Alaska Lodge, 605/725-5262, fishing@questalaskalodges.com. One reason is that it is directly across the bay from Sitka. Yet, once you arrive, you feel as if you are deep in the wilderness. During this adventure, should you crave a taste for city life, just hitch a ride on a 20-minute “go for supplies” trip to Sitka.If you are angling for trophy size salmon, plus huge halibut, lingcod and red snapper, the Sitka waters are among the most productive in Southeastern Alaska. Don’t just take my word for it – I obtained that information directly from the Alaska Fish and Game Department.Quest has individual waterfront cabins, each of which is easily accessible via the scenic, illuminated boardwalk that encircles the private island. Three cabins have two bedrooms and two bathrooms. Some have kitchens. All accommodations are tastefully furnished with plush chairs, sofas and comfy beds.The Sitka Alaska fleet consists of fishing vessels custom designed and equipped exclusively for the lodge. The boats, with enclosed cabins, can accommodate six fishermen and a highly skilled captain who doubles as a fishing guide. For more on Quest Lodge, see my article in the August 2019 issue of
In Flight USA
(available online at Issuu.com, search for
In Flight USA,
Aug. 2019)
Just Walking, Biking or Taking a Leisurely Drive
Few American cities offer so much nature within, or just shortly beyond, the city limits. For example, you can observe the whales without ever leaving dry land. Just six miles south of downtown, Whale Park presents an opportunity to view wildlife from the boardwalk. Humpback whales appear in late fall and early spring. A hydrophone in the main shelter enables visitors to listen to the languid sounds of the whales.Just outside of town, you can select any number of trails for hikes through the woods. Stop by a tranquil lake where you are likely to be the solitary visitors. The picturesque Thistle Lake was our choice.For a thrilling experience, bike, drive or hike up to the mountaintop on any number of roads. When you reach the summit, you can spread out a lunch on a picnic table and take in the majestic vistas of Sitka and the harbor. No architect or designer could duplicate the beauty of this “dining room.” You could never get such views from an urban skyscraper.
Dining
We dug into some good steaks at the Sitka Hotel Restaurant, 118 Lincoln Street, 907/747-3288. However, the place to which we returned for most of our meals was the Bayview Pub, 407 Lincoln Street, 907/747-5300. The energetic dining room is casual and friendly. Service is great. Outstanding cuisine kept us coming back for more. Try a chicken, rockfish or regular burger-or a Philly cheese steak. Steaks are impressive-so is the rack of lamb. We savored the fresh fish selections as well. Desserts are enormous and delightful.For a special treat, hop over to Grandma Tillie’s Bakery, 1318 Sawmill Creek Road, 907/747-3273 for luscious, tempting cinnamon rolls, donuts, pies or scones.
Where to Stay
After several days of fishing, we returned to Sitka and hunkered down at the Super 8 Motel, 404 Sawmill Creek Rd., Sitka 99835, phone 855/516-1090. Located in the center of town just steps from shopping and restaurants, the motel’s rooms are clean and well furnished. The staff is cordial, helpful and efficient.Sitka has been added to my list of favorite cities in the U.S.A. I love to visit, go fishing, take long hikes and just roam around America’s largest city.
