Flying With Faber: Our Annual Trip to San Francisco
By Stuart J. FaberIn the course of each year, my job takes me to the four corners of the planet. One week, I may be in Shanghai. A week later, I am on the other end of the globe – perhaps London. In between, I might visit places that some folks might regard is less glamorous.That’s okay with me – I’m not always looking for glamour. You know, at times you might love to dine on gourmet cuisine (I’ve never quite understood what the term means), on a table adorned with white linen and bone China plates. Other times, it’s just as exciting, or even more so, to saunter into a dive in a small, obscure town and have a down-home sizzling steak or burger dinner. (For the latter, I’ve often written about, and rhapsodized over, one of my favorite joints in America – Jocko’s steak house in Nipomo, Calif. I can’t count the times we’ve flown or driven from Los Angeles just to devour one of their steaks).The point is that I often can derive just as much pleasure and exhilaration, or more, from a trip to some off-the-beaten-path village as I can from strolling down the Champs Elysees. But when asked about my favorite places in the world, San Francisco is always near the top of the list.One reason is that the environs of this city are so magnificent and unique that, as is true with all genuine beauty, the pulchritude increases with each observation. Another is that San Francisco was my boyhood home for two years during WWII. Some force draws me back each year.The AirportMy airport of choice is Oakland International (KOAK). Oakland and KSFO are virtually equidistant from the city. The Oakland field is more general aviation friendly. One ILS runway, 27R/9L, is reserved for GA. KaiserAir, 510/569-9622 is my usual stop. Landmark Aviation, 510/633-1266 is the other FBO. Kaiser can arrange for a rental car, which can be left at the FBO upon your departure.HotelsClift Hotel, 495 Geary Street, San Francisco, CA 94102, 415/775-4700, www.morganshotelgroup.com/clift-sf
I’ve been hanging out at the Clift for more than 30 years. Built by Frederick Clift in 1913 as the city’s first luxury hotel, the Clift has been witness to San Francisco’s glorious history. For many years, it was operated as a Four Seasons Hotel. About 10 years ago, it was sold to Morgan’s Hotel Group, hoteliers who have pioneered new hotel concepts on both coasts. Morgan transformed this historical landmark into a fused masterpiece of modern design and early San Francisco world charm.Steps from Union Square shopping and the legendary Nob Hill, The Clift is ideally located for sightseeing, shopping, and socializing. What I absolutely adore about this hotel is that it represents the pinnacle of unique design and stellar luxury, yet it imparts the feeling of a down-to-earth hospitable home. Some fancy hotels are relentless in reminding what a privilege it is to allow you through the door. A few supercilious managers actually dictate how you must attire yourself before you enter the lobby. Imagine that – they will take your money and tell you what clothing to wear!
At the Clift, folks meander around in everything from tattered jeans, (that’s me), to designer gowns. And that incongruity is a perfect blend. The Clift today reminds me of hotels in the 1950s – places where folks meet, hang around, imbibe, and dine – sort of like a town center.Designed by Philippe Starck and Ian Schrager, the dramatically illuminated lobby contains one of the most eclectic furniture collections in all of California, with chairs from Ray and Charles Eames, a coffee table by Salvador Dalí, The Apple Stool by Roberto Sebastian Matta inspired by René Magritte, and a sculpture custom made by William Sawaya. The centerpiece is a 35-foot fireplace with a Bronze chimney sculpture by Gerard Garouste. The thrilling monumental scale and fantastical furnishings create a dream-like composition that is the cornerstone of Clift’s ambiance.Whisk yourself up the softly lighted, deeply colored elevators to the cozy guestrooms and suites. These digs also feature beautifully crafted furniture custom-designed, primarily by Philippe Starck. The luxurious 300-thread-count bedding, down duvet, and Merino wool blanket are a perfect complement to the muted elegance. You may never want to leave.Meanwhile, back in the lobby, the famous and historic Redwood Room has been restored and reinvented as an exceptionally elegant and modern San Francisco bar. Suffused with all-out glamour, the interior features the original redwood paneling and enormous bar, which, legend has, was carved from a single redwood tree. The Redwood Room also features Starck-designed lounge furniture and an ever-changing array of digital artwork displayed on plasma television screens hung throughout the room. The Room has become a great hangout for locals and tourists alike. As the sun sets, a diverse group of folks gather for cocktails and delicious snacks.There is a great collection of stylishly appointed meeting rooms unlike any other hotel. A 24-hour business center includes computer workstations with laser printers and Internet access. A 24-hour fitness center is also available. By the way, service was impeccable and without a hint of superciliousness.What a fabulous hotel. It almost took an eviction notice to pry me out.Nikko Hotel, 222 Mason Street, San Francisco, CA 94102, 415/ 394-1111, www.hotelnikkosf.com. 
My first experience with the Nikko coincided with their grand opening. Although it seems like only a few years ago, over 25 years have passed (1987) since I first gazed in awe at this gleaming property with its white tile lobby and majestic ceilings. This past month, I stopped in for a short visit and reunion. It gleams as brightly today.This super-luxury hotel is centrally located in downtown San Francisco––two blocks from Union Square, one block from the historic Cable Cars, and four blocks from Moscone Center. The hotel’s 532 guest rooms provide a soothing escape with their plush pillow-top beds with Frette linens and down comforters, 42-inch flats screens, and 10 Mb/sec wireless Internet. New bathrooms feature granite countertops, porcelain fixtures,
travertine marble, and boast stall showers as well as bathtubs. The 10,000-square-foot, 24-hour health club features new cardiovascular equipment, steam rooms, dry saunas, an atrium covered 15-meter pool, and a whirlpool spa.The hotel is ideal for a get-together for huge weddings or meetings, or other social events, pilot’s groups and business pow-wows. There are 13 other rooms and boardrooms of every size and description––all with natural light and great views of the city.DiningFarallon, 450 Post Street, San Francisco, CA 94102, 415/956-6969, www.farallonrestaurant.com.Founded by famed restaurateur and designer, Pat Kuleto, and Chef, Mark Franz, Farallon has been enchanting guests for 18 years. With carefully crafted details that capture the aquatic life, Farallon has been justifiability lauded as a top-dining establishment in this city. What was once the Elks Club building in 1925 has been transformed into an aquatic-themed space with a whimsical jelly bar fashioned with jellyfish lights and octopus bar stools. The floor resembles the ocean bottom. The caviar staircase to the balcony shines with 50,000 iridescent indigo-blue marbles resembling caviar.The freshest seafood available comprises the majority of the menu, rounded out with local produce, meat, and game. The Oyster Bar menu features a daily selection of 10 different types of oysters from around the world, all on the half shell. Tartars, caviar, and house-cured gravlax are also available. Iced shellfish platters feature an assortment of raw and chilled shellfish.The Dining Room menu features appetizers with such favorites as Hawaiian Ahi tuna tartare with crisp wonton, toasted pine nuts, brut champagne, lemon chantilly; wild arugula and endive salad, brandied Bing cherries, frog hollow peaches, sandy bottom goat cheese; crisp Chesapeake Bay soft shell crab with fried green tomato, applewood smoked bacon, buttermilk emulsion; and Brentwood white corn ravioli with porcini mushrooms.The entrees include seared Mediterranean branzino with butter braised leeks and fava beans, yellow corn royale, tomato confit; grilled sterling filet of beef with garlic roasted squash and eggplant, crème fraiche crushed potatoes and balsamic-cabernet reduction; and seared rare Hawaiian ono with mango puree, baby tatsoi, pickled enoki mushrooms. Innovative desserts include dishes such as pear and almond crème tart with crème fraîche ice cream, goats milk panna cotta with vanilla poached apples, pumpkin seed crumble, chocolate pound cake, plus an exquisite selection of imported and domestic cheeses. The seafood was fresh and supple, the broths and sauces were exquisite.Le Colonial, 20 Cosmo Place, San Francisco, CA 94109, 415/931-3600, www.lecolonialsf.com
Just a short stroll from our hotel near Union Square, we walked up the hill and turned into what seemed like an alley. The dimly lit passage was our gateway to a colonial style building, which evoked the tropical elegance of French Vietnam in the 1920s. We walked up a set of tiled stairs and entered a veranda, which immediately seemed to whisk us across the Pacific. Shuttered windows, antique lamps, and rattan furniture set among palm fronds and lazily swirling ceiling fans seemed to tell us that we were about to embark on an intriguing dining experience. You can enjoy an interlude at the upstairs bar and lounge in a relaxed salon adorned with faded oriental rugs, decorative bamboo birdcages, low wooden tables and comfortable couches.We headed right for the dining room. The Vietnamese cuisine is fashioned from the highest quality cuisine available, primarily from local ecologically farmed meat, game, and poultry. Among the specialty dishes are an heirloom tomato salad with watercress, cherry tomatoes, and red onions served with a tart basil dressing. The seared Ahi tuna salad with cucumber, avocado, and red onions is dressed with an herb-lime emulsion and chili aioli. We also sampled the spring rolls with shrimp, pork, and mushrooms – crisp and flavorful.How about roasted Peking duck breast with a pomegranate glaze for an entree? Or, I recommend the pan-seared halibut served with edamame and fava bean ragout.My favorite was the Steak Au Poivre a grilled prime rib eye steak with curried pommes frites and green peppercorn scallions sauce, which I drank it like a soup. Or, the five-spiced seasoned grilled lamb chops with sweet and sour ratatouille and ginger butter soy sauce. Overall this restaurant offered sumptuous food and outstanding service.Fog Harbor Fish House, Pier 39, San Francisco, CA 94133, 415/421-2442, www.fogharbor.com. 
Fog Harbor Fish House is located at the world famous Fisherman’s Wharf on the San Francisco Bay. No question that tourists flock to the Wharf. Sightings of tourists have indeed been reported at Fog Harbor. At least once a year, I’m included in that population. The point is the syllogism that “if tourists frequent the place, ergo, it’s expensive” is not necessarily true, especially at Fog Harbor. Territorial battles for tables between tourists and sophisticated locals are legendary. The locals know and understand great food and value. That’s why the number of local sightings is profuse.Fog Harbor Fish House offers the quintessential San Francisco waterfront dining experience. Steeped in tradition, Fog Harbor Fish House was created by the original developers of PIER 39 and is filled with a quarter century of San Francisco history. Family-owned and operated, these folks are obsessive in their quest to select the freshest sustainable seafood in San Francisco.Grab a table or booth next to the giant picture windows, take in the view of the Golden Gate Bridge, the fishing boats docked at their slips, Alcatraz and often, a full moonlight as you peruse the menu with goodies such as live lobster, Cioppino, just-caught whole crab, steaks, catch of the day, or even a steak. Steaming loaves of San Francisco sourdough breads are baked fresh daily. You can also dine outdoors and luxuriate next to a warm fireplace and soothing waterfalls.Start off with oysters on the half shell, a bowl of steamed clams, jumbo shrimp cocktail or a farm fresh salad. Many claim the clam chowder to be the best in town. Tear off a huge hunk of sourdough as you ponder over the entrees of salmon, Ahi tuna, or one of the shellfish dishes.The fresh wild caught salmon is grilled and served on a bed of roasted corn, arugula, red peppers, and fingerling potatoes. The Ahi tuna is seared rare with a crunchy sesame seed crust, ginger soy glaze, and stirfried veggies. We are shellfish lovers, so we generally go for the whole Dungeness crab, a shellfish platter, or the cioppino. The latter is chock full of crab, fresh fish, shrimp, scallops, and clams and mussels stewed in a rich and hearty tomato herb broth.I never leave without trying the apple crisp, house-made with Granny Smith apples, walnuts, and a butter crumb, served warm and topped with vanilla ice cream. I also recommend the vanilla bean crème brule, the tiramisu, or the chocolate banana bread pudding.Same time – next year, I will be back. I’ll grab a modicum of glamour, but primarily, I’ll visit some boyhood haunts and search for some new ones.
I’ve been hanging out at the Clift for more than 30 years. Built by Frederick Clift in 1913 as the city’s first luxury hotel, the Clift has been witness to San Francisco’s glorious history. For many years, it was operated as a Four Seasons Hotel. About 10 years ago, it was sold to Morgan’s Hotel Group, hoteliers who have pioneered new hotel concepts on both coasts. Morgan transformed this historical landmark into a fused masterpiece of modern design and early San Francisco world charm.Steps from Union Square shopping and the legendary Nob Hill, The Clift is ideally located for sightseeing, shopping, and socializing. What I absolutely adore about this hotel is that it represents the pinnacle of unique design and stellar luxury, yet it imparts the feeling of a down-to-earth hospitable home. Some fancy hotels are relentless in reminding what a privilege it is to allow you through the door. A few supercilious managers actually dictate how you must attire yourself before you enter the lobby. Imagine that – they will take your money and tell you what clothing to wear!At the Clift, folks meander around in everything from tattered jeans, (that’s me), to designer gowns. And that incongruity is a perfect blend. The Clift today reminds me of hotels in the 1950s – places where folks meet, hang around, imbibe, and dine – sort of like a town center.Designed by Philippe Starck and Ian Schrager, the dramatically illuminated lobby contains one of the most eclectic furniture collections in all of California, with chairs from Ray and Charles Eames, a coffee table by Salvador Dalí, The Apple Stool by Roberto Sebastian Matta inspired by René Magritte, and a sculpture custom made by William Sawaya. The centerpiece is a 35-foot fireplace with a Bronze chimney sculpture by Gerard Garouste. The thrilling monumental scale and fantastical furnishings create a dream-like composition that is the cornerstone of Clift’s ambiance.Whisk yourself up the softly lighted, deeply colored elevators to the cozy guestrooms and suites. These digs also feature beautifully crafted furniture custom-designed, primarily by Philippe Starck. The luxurious 300-thread-count bedding, down duvet, and Merino wool blanket are a perfect complement to the muted elegance. You may never want to leave.Meanwhile, back in the lobby, the famous and historic Redwood Room has been restored and reinvented as an exceptionally elegant and modern San Francisco bar. Suffused with all-out glamour, the interior features the original redwood paneling and enormous bar, which, legend has, was carved from a single redwood tree. The Redwood Room also features Starck-designed lounge furniture and an ever-changing array of digital artwork displayed on plasma television screens hung throughout the room. The Room has become a great hangout for locals and tourists alike. As the sun sets, a diverse group of folks gather for cocktails and delicious snacks.There is a great collection of stylishly appointed meeting rooms unlike any other hotel. A 24-hour business center includes computer workstations with laser printers and Internet access. A 24-hour fitness center is also available. By the way, service was impeccable and without a hint of superciliousness.What a fabulous hotel. It almost took an eviction notice to pry me out.Nikko Hotel, 222 Mason Street, San Francisco, CA 94102, 415/ 394-1111, www.hotelnikkosf.com. My first experience with the Nikko coincided with their grand opening. Although it seems like only a few years ago, over 25 years have passed (1987) since I first gazed in awe at this gleaming property with its white tile lobby and majestic ceilings. This past month, I stopped in for a short visit and reunion. It gleams as brightly today.This super-luxury hotel is centrally located in downtown San Francisco––two blocks from Union Square, one block from the historic Cable Cars, and four blocks from Moscone Center. The hotel’s 532 guest rooms provide a soothing escape with their plush pillow-top beds with Frette linens and down comforters, 42-inch flats screens, and 10 Mb/sec wireless Internet. New bathrooms feature granite countertops, porcelain fixtures,travertine marble, and boast stall showers as well as bathtubs. The 10,000-square-foot, 24-hour health club features new cardiovascular equipment, steam rooms, dry saunas, an atrium covered 15-meter pool, and a whirlpool spa.The hotel is ideal for a get-together for huge weddings or meetings, or other social events, pilot’s groups and business pow-wows. There are 13 other rooms and boardrooms of every size and description––all with natural light and great views of the city.DiningFarallon, 450 Post Street, San Francisco, CA 94102, 415/956-6969, www.farallonrestaurant.com.Founded by famed restaurateur and designer, Pat Kuleto, and Chef, Mark Franz, Farallon has been enchanting guests for 18 years. With carefully crafted details that capture the aquatic life, Farallon has been justifiability lauded as a top-dining establishment in this city. What was once the Elks Club building in 1925 has been transformed into an aquatic-themed space with a whimsical jelly bar fashioned with jellyfish lights and octopus bar stools. The floor resembles the ocean bottom. The caviar staircase to the balcony shines with 50,000 iridescent indigo-blue marbles resembling caviar.The freshest seafood available comprises the majority of the menu, rounded out with local produce, meat, and game. The Oyster Bar menu features a daily selection of 10 different types of oysters from around the world, all on the half shell. Tartars, caviar, and house-cured gravlax are also available. Iced shellfish platters feature an assortment of raw and chilled shellfish.The Dining Room menu features appetizers with such favorites as Hawaiian Ahi tuna tartare with crisp wonton, toasted pine nuts, brut champagne, lemon chantilly; wild arugula and endive salad, brandied Bing cherries, frog hollow peaches, sandy bottom goat cheese; crisp Chesapeake Bay soft shell crab with fried green tomato, applewood smoked bacon, buttermilk emulsion; and Brentwood white corn ravioli with porcini mushrooms.The entrees include seared Mediterranean branzino with butter braised leeks and fava beans, yellow corn royale, tomato confit; grilled sterling filet of beef with garlic roasted squash and eggplant, crème fraiche crushed potatoes and balsamic-cabernet reduction; and seared rare Hawaiian ono with mango puree, baby tatsoi, pickled enoki mushrooms. Innovative desserts include dishes such as pear and almond crème tart with crème fraîche ice cream, goats milk panna cotta with vanilla poached apples, pumpkin seed crumble, chocolate pound cake, plus an exquisite selection of imported and domestic cheeses. The seafood was fresh and supple, the broths and sauces were exquisite.Le Colonial, 20 Cosmo Place, San Francisco, CA 94109, 415/931-3600, www.lecolonialsf.comJust a short stroll from our hotel near Union Square, we walked up the hill and turned into what seemed like an alley. The dimly lit passage was our gateway to a colonial style building, which evoked the tropical elegance of French Vietnam in the 1920s. We walked up a set of tiled stairs and entered a veranda, which immediately seemed to whisk us across the Pacific. Shuttered windows, antique lamps, and rattan furniture set among palm fronds and lazily swirling ceiling fans seemed to tell us that we were about to embark on an intriguing dining experience. You can enjoy an interlude at the upstairs bar and lounge in a relaxed salon adorned with faded oriental rugs, decorative bamboo birdcages, low wooden tables and comfortable couches.We headed right for the dining room. The Vietnamese cuisine is fashioned from the highest quality cuisine available, primarily from local ecologically farmed meat, game, and poultry. Among the specialty dishes are an heirloom tomato salad with watercress, cherry tomatoes, and red onions served with a tart basil dressing. The seared Ahi tuna salad with cucumber, avocado, and red onions is dressed with an herb-lime emulsion and chili aioli. We also sampled the spring rolls with shrimp, pork, and mushrooms – crisp and flavorful.How about roasted Peking duck breast with a pomegranate glaze for an entree? Or, I recommend the pan-seared halibut served with edamame and fava bean ragout.My favorite was the Steak Au Poivre a grilled prime rib eye steak with curried pommes frites and green peppercorn scallions sauce, which I drank it like a soup. Or, the five-spiced seasoned grilled lamb chops with sweet and sour ratatouille and ginger butter soy sauce. Overall this restaurant offered sumptuous food and outstanding service.Fog Harbor Fish House, Pier 39, San Francisco, CA 94133, 415/421-2442, www.fogharbor.com. Fog Harbor Fish House is located at the world famous Fisherman’s Wharf on the San Francisco Bay. No question that tourists flock to the Wharf. Sightings of tourists have indeed been reported at Fog Harbor. At least once a year, I’m included in that population. The point is the syllogism that “if tourists frequent the place, ergo, it’s expensive” is not necessarily true, especially at Fog Harbor. Territorial battles for tables between tourists and sophisticated locals are legendary. The locals know and understand great food and value. That’s why the number of local sightings is profuse.Fog Harbor Fish House offers the quintessential San Francisco waterfront dining experience. Steeped in tradition, Fog Harbor Fish House was created by the original developers of PIER 39 and is filled with a quarter century of San Francisco history. Family-owned and operated, these folks are obsessive in their quest to select the freshest sustainable seafood in San Francisco.Grab a table or booth next to the giant picture windows, take in the view of the Golden Gate Bridge, the fishing boats docked at their slips, Alcatraz and often, a full moonlight as you peruse the menu with goodies such as live lobster, Cioppino, just-caught whole crab, steaks, catch of the day, or even a steak. Steaming loaves of San Francisco sourdough breads are baked fresh daily. You can also dine outdoors and luxuriate next to a warm fireplace and soothing waterfalls.Start off with oysters on the half shell, a bowl of steamed clams, jumbo shrimp cocktail or a farm fresh salad. Many claim the clam chowder to be the best in town. Tear off a huge hunk of sourdough as you ponder over the entrees of salmon, Ahi tuna, or one of the shellfish dishes.The fresh wild caught salmon is grilled and served on a bed of roasted corn, arugula, red peppers, and fingerling potatoes. The Ahi tuna is seared rare with a crunchy sesame seed crust, ginger soy glaze, and stirfried veggies. We are shellfish lovers, so we generally go for the whole Dungeness crab, a shellfish platter, or the cioppino. The latter is chock full of crab, fresh fish, shrimp, scallops, and clams and mussels stewed in a rich and hearty tomato herb broth.I never leave without trying the apple crisp, house-made with Granny Smith apples, walnuts, and a butter crumb, served warm and topped with vanilla ice cream. I also recommend the vanilla bean crème brule, the tiramisu, or the chocolate banana bread pudding.Same time – next year, I will be back. I’ll grab a modicum of glamour, but primarily, I’ll visit some boyhood haunts and search for some new ones.