Flying With Faber - April 2013

Seventy Years of San Francisco

By Stuart J. FaberFor some reason, it almost seems as if New Year’s day shows up twice a year. Perhaps it seems that way because, as I get older, the years grow shorter.For almost 20 years, I’ve been making an annual New Year’s trip from Los Angeles to San Francisco. Last December, as I commenced the planning of this year’s trip, I felt as if I had planned the previous excursion just a few months before.I’ve always regarded San Francisco as my second home. My first love remains my boyhood home in Wisconsin, however, my memories of the wartime years (WWII, that is), some of which were spent in San Francisco, always generate a groundswell of nostalgia. As we flew into the Bay Area and I commenced my descent into Oakland International Airport, it occurred to me that it had been exactly 70 years since my very first glimpse of the city.In 1943, during the height of the war, my father, a physician, was conscripted into the army medical corps. In our cozy home on the shores of Lake Michigan, it never entered my mind that we would suddenly be uprooted, placing the house up for sale and traveling to a state that I had read about in geography books but never dreamed I would ever see. Within a few weeks, we boarded America’s superb train, “The City of San Francisco,” and headed west. The forests, pastures and prairies of the Midwest soon merged into land which was less fecund. Grasslands were followed by shrubs and the shrub land soon turned into desert. We crossed the Rockies and skirted the Great Basin and, within three nights, chugged into San Francisco.Before long, we were settled into our new quarters on San Francisco’s historic military base, The Presidio. We were assigned a house in officer’s quarters that was perched atop a hill that ascended from the center of the military compound. To my amazement, I have always to this day remembered the exact address: 540B East Terrace. How strange that I can remember that number, yet frequently cannot recall what I had for lunch yesterday or where the lunch took place.The Presidio, in the center of which was Letterman General Hospital where my dad worked, was, of course, bustling with military activity. Planes would take off and land from Crissy Field, a small bayside airport at the edge of The Presidio. Entering or leaving the base required an inspection at the gate by grim looking MPs. Olive drab vehicles of every description from huge trucks to jeeps drove up and down the streets.Occasionally, everyone would stop in their tracks and salute as the base commander drove by. I still remember his name -General Hillman. The grounds were attended to by Italian POWs. I was often afraid that they would attack us.The grounds adjacent to the hospital were populated with service personnel who had been returned from the Pacific for treatment of their wounds. Many strolled around the grassy areas. Others just sat in wheelchairs. Dressed in regulation red-purple colored robes and pajamas, these brave chaps suffered from various degrees of injuries. Some were missing one or multiple limbs. My friends and I would hang out and talk to these guys for hours. Everything seemed so peaceful and friendly, it hardly dawned upon us the horrible conditions which brought them to Letterman. Many were not so fortunate-they never came home.Our house on the hill was surrounded by a dense forest. We would spend hours playing a variety of games. On my dad’s day off, we often went fishing off of a concrete pier which jutted into the bay.Seventy years later, San Francisco in many respects has hardly changed. Conversely, it has changed significantly. Many of the Victorian neighborhoods remain the same. The views of the Golden Gate Bridge differ little from what one would have seen in 1943. The sounds of the fog horns, the cable cars and the waves rolling on shore are the same. Lofty skyscrapers have not diminished the traditional San Francisco panache.I have visited just about every major city in the world. San Francisco rates among the most beautiful, vivacious and exciting. On every visit, it looks the same and also looks different. With each visit, I discover new nooks and crannies everywhere I turn. The city exudes the panorama of Hong Kong, the diversity of New York, the enchantment and romanticism of Paris, the bustle of Berlin and the intrigue of Budapest or Istanbul.The Presidio is now an extensive tourist attraction. I miss the Presidio I once knew. The army has retreated. However, I can’t argue with the fact that military bases and old battlefields serve mankind better as tourist attractions.HotelsGrand Hyatt Hotel345 Stockton Street, San Francisco, CA 94108, 415/398-1234grandsanfrancisco.hyatt.comWe generally divide our visits between two hotels. We first selected the Grand Hyatt because of its proximity to Union Square. This hotel has been a landmark for several decades. Recently renovated, it is now a chic new destination for both the business and leisure traveler. The accommodations, with their plush beds and bedding, stunning views, media phones with MP3/iPod docking, large work desks and huge flat screen TVs, radiate a residential ambiance blended with the latest technological amenities. The OneUP restaurant serves three meals daily including fabulous steak and seafood dinners. The pet friendly hotel has a business center, fitness facilities and Wi-Fi throughout.Mandarin Oriental Hotel222 Sansome Street, San Francisco, CA 94104, 415/276-9888,www.mandarinoriental.comThe Mandarin has always been one of my favorite hotels in San Francisco. Since the emergence from its new design project, it has become even more of a favorite. Few other luxury hotels in the city can rival the Mandarin’s location, gentility, subtle luxury and impeccable service. The 158 guestrooms and suites are magnificently tailored with a calming and timeless aesthetic quality. The custom designed accommodations are tastefully furnished with a hint of French Deco. Each room has lightweight cotton robes, safes, hi-speed wireless internet and twice daily maid service. Many rooms, and some of the bathrooms, have spectacular panoramic views of the city. With a click of a drapery switch, you can become immersed in the city or luxuriate in complete quietude and privacy.The 8000-square-foot Spa and Fitness Center is reason alone to select the Mandarin for your stay. A dedicated team of holistic therapists guides guests through a sensory experience that touches the mind, body and spirit. The Spa offers a tranquil, meditative setting within four treatment suites, including a special couple’s suite and a relaxing Tea Lounge. Design highlights include a warm, natural color palette with subtle Asian detailing. The walls are finished in richly textured, mocha-hued coverings accented with illuminated golden tones; the interior is further accentuated with museum quality art pieces.The spa offers signature Mandarin treatments developed in consultation with specialists in Traditional Chinese Medicine and master aroma therapists. Treatments consist of a relaxing, hands-on body massage ritual that combines the powerful effects of Oriental meridian massage with the therapeutic benefits of custom-blended essential oils, created uniquely for Mandarin Oriental. The signature 60-minute Oriental Essence massage endows guests with a firm, full-body massage concentrating on neck, shoulder and lower back areas to leave the body, mind, and spirit energized, revitalized, and in perfect harmony.RestaurantsIt is indisputable that San Francisco is one of the leading culinary destinations of the country – perhaps the world. Here are a few new (and old), discoveries.Original Joe’s601 Union Street, San Francisco, CA 94133, 415/775-4877,www.originaljoessf.comFor years, Original Joe’s was one of my first stops in San Francisco. A few years ago, I rushed to the restaurant only to discover that it had been ravaged by a fire. First opened in 1937 by the grandfather of the present owner, this legendary eatery has been reborn.The Original Joe’s dining room evokes the spirit of the original and includes the signature burgundy red booths from the old Taylor Street location, a separate bar/cocktail lounge with a piano, green Naugahyde banquettes, a fireplace (made with salvaged bricks from the original locale), an exhibition kitchen, Art Deco mermaids, and a vintage-like neon exterior sign. The restaurant showcases unpretentious, moderately priced classic, uncomplicated Italian/ American fare including signature offerings such as the Joe’s Burger, Veal Scallopini, the Joe’s Special, Filet of Sole and Chicken Parmigiana. The selections are sparkling in appearance and resonant with flavor. Service is reminiscent of old San Francisco – friendly, responsive and very professional.Urban Tavern333 O’Farrell Street, San Francisco, CA, 415923-4400, www.urbantavernsf.comThis is another of my must-visit places. The interior design is quirky, yet stylish. Highlights include a striking full-size horse sculpture welded together from tractor, motorcycle and car parts. Also notable are the intimate booths, reclaimed wood beams and claddings, a communal table made from a recovered fallen tree, plaster walls, exposed concrete, a marble-topped bar and saddle-shaped bar stools.Classic items that have been featured on the Urban Tavern menu include such appetizers as Chopped Farmers Market Vegetable Salad; Spicy Beer Sausage and House Made Pretzel; and Crawfish and Wild Mushroom Turnovers. Among the entrees are Fish Du Jour, sustainably sourced and prepared using fresh seasonal ingredients; Five Spice Braised Baby Back Ribs; and Tavern Steak and Fries. For dessert, diners can enjoy Banana Trifle Jar or Sticky Toffee Pudding.Palio D’Asti640 Sacramento Street, San Francisco, CA 94111, 415/395-9800www.paliodasti.com I love Italian cuisine, so it’s not unusual for me to feast on pasta, pizza and all the trimmings twice in one visit to a city. When I strolled into Palio, the first item that caught my attention was the formidable brick pizza oven which was obviously built in Italy. The next factor that convinced me that we were about to have a memorable meal was my encounter with Martino DiGrande, the owner. You could just tell that his personal dedication would result in wholesome, authentic Italian dishes like mamma used to make.The Margherita pizza was the best I’ve had in San Francisco – thin, crisp crust, fresh tomatoes and basil and creamy mozzarella. Of course, you can get just about any fresh topping imaginable. The pasta course consisted of a fresh homemade linguini with Dungeness crab and genuine San Marzano tomato sauce. After all of this, we barely had any remaining tummy space, so we split an impressive serving of short ribs with caramelized cipollini onions.Fleur de Lys777 Sutter Street, San Francisco, CA 94109, 415/673-7779, www.hubertkeller.comHubert Keller is one of the most skillful and imaginative chefs I have ever met in the U.S. He grew up in the Alsace region of France, so it’s no surprise that his talents were influenced by one of the leading culinary centers of the world. The recipient of numerous awards, Chef Keller deftly combines the essence of traditional French cuisine with an appropriate level of contemporary touches. The dining room is elegant and formal, but guests seemed comfortable whether attired in their finest garments or a fancy pair of jeans. Service is super-attentive but not obtrusive.I loved the pork loin served with Brussels sprouts and a mustard grain spaetzle. It was sprinkled with crispy bacon and enhanced with a rich, delicate tarragon wine sauce. The seared filet mignon with lobster truffled mac and cheese accented with a thyme bordelaise sauce was extraordinary. For dessert we devoured sumptuous slices of pecan spice pie and a chocolate-praline parfait with homemade marshmallow napoleon.Fog Harbor Fish HousePier 39, No. 213, San Francisco, CA 94133, 415/421-2442Pier 39 is a popular tourist attraction. Fog Harbor Fish House resides atop the pier with dramatic views of the Bay, Alcatraz Island and the Golden Gate Bridge. Restaurants focused on tourist trade often offer a great atmosphere and not much more. But this place also serves outstanding seafood and provides wonderful service. This family-owned and operated restaurant delivers huge portions of live lobster, cioppino, whole crab and fresh catches of the day. We started off with meaty crab cakes topped with a Cajun sauce and a huge platter of fresh oysters. The clam chowder is served in a scooped-out loaf of sourdough bread. The fresh-caught salmon is grilled and served on a bed of roasted corn, red peppers and arugula. Whole Dungeness crab is delivered with corn on the cob and fingerling potatoes. Cioppino, served in a rich tomato sauce, is bulging with fresh fish, shrimp, scallops and clams. The steaks and salads are also remarkable.After almost a week, we reluctantly headed for Oakland International Airport (KOAK). We were parked at KaiserAir, my FBO of choice. I fired up the plane, taxied to Runway 27R and departed. Whenever I leave the Bay Area, I always bank the plane for one last glance of the region.When I return next year, it will again be like returning home. At the same time, I will experience the sensation of discovering a city that I have never seen before. It’s always that way.